Edition II; by RyokoTK
So you're new to Aleph One... or maybe you're not. Either way, you're up and ready to go for some netplay, and you even have played it before, but you're just not that good. Maybe you keep having a string of bad luck, or perhaps you're just getting stomped by all the people you play against. That's what this guide is for: understanding the basics of netplay.
The thing is, while solo play in Marathon is fairly self-explanatory, netplay really isn't. The weapons that are there to be used don't follow the rules of the modern shooters. The weapons don't work the same as counterparts for games like Quake 3, and some weapons require a lot of practice to use right. The nuances of how weapons work in Marathon can sometimes be very difficult to understand, and even I am not a master at them by any means, but a successful player has the knowledge of how to use each weapon in different situations.
This guide contains detailed information for help on all fields of the game, breaking down into general guidelines, detailed weapon strategies, and strategies for gametypes. Marathon may seem like another point-and-click FPS, but it really isn't; there's some strategy required, and the best players know how to think quickly.
If you only remember one section of this guide, this should be it. These are the rules that everyone should operate by. They're very general rules that all exist to amplify both your survivability and your kill count. Most players follow them unconsciously, to some extent, and you should too; they should be natural instincts, an extension of your own being. Learn them well. Eventually, you won't have to think about it; you'll just do it.
The fundamentals of aiming are generally common-sense, but some people don't really follow them anyway.
Being snuck up on by an enemy with a powerful gun is basically instant death. However, if you see the enemy coming, you can react -- you can get out of the way, you can fire on them and hopefully kill them first. You have a few abilities at your disposal which can help.
While a host might spring some personal homebrew on you, most of the time, you'll end up playing on maps in common rotation from a few big netmaps. Take time to look at them so you know the key features. It gives you a few benefits as well; while they're not big on their own, combined, knowledge of the map can be a huge advantage.
Campers can only do so well; the winners of the game are most often the people that don't spend much time hiding. They're always in the face of the enemy, scoring points. Campers, on the other hand, miss many kills because of the lack of sniper weapons.
Being aggressive does not mean being reckless. Try to avoid the stupid deaths and extend your survivability.
The point of the game is to win by scoring points, time, etc. Time not spent on the hill is time spent losing the game. Time spent roaming the back hallways of the map is time spent not killing enemies and scoring points.
Much of the game relies on common sense. Even if you feel like you can score a point by doing something overly bold, don't. If (when) you get killed doing it, you'll feel like an idiot.
This section of the guide is devoted to weapon usage. I'll break down the discussion of each weapon into four categories. The first will just be general usage -- how it works, where the advantages lie, and so forth. The second will be how to defeat a SPNKR-user with it. The SPNKR is such a widely used weapon, and strategies for defeating a SPNKR-user vary from weapon to weapon, unlike all of the other weapons, which can be beaten in pretty much the same manner -- described by the third section. The final section is just miscellaneous details that you may or may not know about the gun at hand.
Powerups are your friends. They (tend) to skew things in your favor, sometimes by quite a large margin. In this case, I use the word "powerup" to mean some kind of perishable pick-up item that gives you a benefit outside of ammo or weapons. There are 8 types of powerups in all, some of which give shields, some of which give you some typically arcadey boost. Some powerups are more common than others -- for instance, many Red Spectrum maps contain a shield canister of some kind and an Invisibility powerup. Others are rarer, but they still exist, so knowing the value and usefulness of each powerup will help you.
Shield Canisters come in three (well, four) flavors: 1x (red), 2x (yellow), 3x (purple), and oxygen (blue). In the case of the first three, they will instantly increase your shields to that shield level (if you have less than that); for instance, a 1x Canister will set you at full red shields if you don't have that much, and so forth. The oxygen canister will replenish your oxygen if you're missing at least 10% oxygen. While you probably won't see an oxygen canister in netplay, the three shield canisters are common enough and can really skew battles in your favor. Because they instantly heal you, unlike wall-mounted rechargers, shield canisters are an extremely favorable way of replenishing yourself, and in duels, this proves to be a huge benefit. They can turn the tables -- when you were once hanging on by a thread, now you're fully healed and have an advantage. In the case of 2x and 3x Canisters, the boost is even bigger, because you can survive a rocket's explosion (but not two). You can also survive a full Shotgun blast and most of a Flamethrower tank, and you are almost impervious to fire from the other guns. Yellow and Purple Shield Canisters are some of the most desirable powerups on the field, so get them quickly!
Invisibility is generally a nice powerup, but its usefulness varies from map to map and from just how invisible you actually are. Unlike other powerups, you can actually collect two Invisibility powerups at once, with drastically different degrees of transparency. While one Invisibility powerup does make you invisible to the motion sensor, and transparent to some degree, you generally aren't very invisible except in very dark shadows -- you're basically a black blob, which is visible enough in brightly-lit spaces. Two Invisibility powerups, though a fairly rare sight, yield completely different circumstances. Now, instead of being dark black, you're almost completely invisible; only in very bright areas will you still be visible, and in somewhat dusky maps, you will be almost impossible to track.
While this doesn't seem to make a single Invisibility useful, it definitely doesn't hurt you. Being invisible to the motion sensor is a pretty useful trick, especially in duels, where you'll be able to escape your enemy that much more easily. And you aren't really as starkly visible as a regular marine, so there's another benefit. It does help, but don't think you're totally undetectable.
Invincibility is the noob's way out. With Invincibility, you are immune to every form of attack -- except for the Fusion Pistol. However, the Fusion Pistol is not a very threatening weapon, so you're generally the boss of the map for the brief duration of this powerup. Nothing else will faze you, so you had better be as aggressive and threatening as you can with your biggest gun. All you have to really worry about is Fusion -- or if someone has the foresight to knock you into a lava pit or something.
Few good maps have Invincibility, and players that use it are generally looked down upon for being noobish. They offer such an overpowering advantage that it generally destroys gameplay while the user is invincible. But aside from that, none of the maps hosted on this site have Invincibility, and very few other good maps have it at all. Even the Infinity stock maps don't use it often. Basically, stay away if you value your manliness.
The big suck! These things look just like Invisibility powerups, but instead of making you invisible, they extend your field of view from whatever it is to a much larger angle -- sort of an "anti-zoom." While extending your peripheral vision could have its benefits, it's largely outclassed by the fact that us humans are not used to seeing in fisheye vision, so the powerup is extremely disorientating. On top of that, it makes the player think he moves faster than he does, and really ruins depth perception. Almost no maps ever contain this powerup -- certainly no good ones do. If you know there's an Extravision, avoid it like the plague.
Infravision is Marathon's hacky version of thermal vision. It turns the entire world into a tetrachromatic mess; walls are blue, allies are yellow, enemies are red, and items are green. It also negates shading and makes the world generally look like shit. Most maps don't have this by virtue of the fact that it kind of sucks. It looks like the Invisibility, and though it isn't really detrimental to the player like Extravision is, it is rare and overall not that helpful.
To state the obvious, Marathon netplay is divided into several different gametypes, and each one has its ins-and-outs and nuances that should be mastered, should you wish to get better at them atogether. They generally play in different styles, and they each warrant their own section. (ADD alert: this part of the guide has very few pictures!) Some helpful acronyms to remember:
Dueling is a key factor of learning how to do well at netplay, but only because dueling games are so common. If you play during the afternoons, you aren't likely to find many players, so you'll be in dueling games more often. Also, when that jerk calls you out for your skills, you'll need to know how to pull a few fast ones on the enemy. Dueling tends to be the most strategic form of gameplay (outside of Capture the Flag), and the best gamers will be able to play mindgames at a much more complex level than the weaker players ever will. Most good maps designed specifically for dueling go beyond basic arena maps, and have many nooks and crannies to be exploited, so knowing the maps themselves is an equally important characteristic of good dueling.
The best way to win a duel is to try and avoid direct combat unless you know you can win. Dying puts you at a disadvantage -- more or less, depending on the map -- because suddenly your enemy has weapons, and you don't. Also, you can escape into the sidelines again and strike. So, strike like an eagle, or something. Basically, wait until your enemy heads into some vulnerable position, and then ambush him with a big gun. The concept of "holding ground" does not exist in dueling (unless the map is poor); you don't necessarily want to be in the most highly trafficked areas of the map. Lurk around, strike from behind, and then flee again. Protracted duels don't work well in your favor; you take damage, and if you can't heal, then you're weakened, and you won't be able to retain your lead.
On the other hand, though, don't camp. Don't stay in one place at all. If you camp, then your advantage via sneakiness is lost completely, because the enemy knows exactly where you are. And believe me, that's never good. Camping is pretty difficult to do well at all in Marathon, and even more so when the enemy can simply stay away from the area you're camping over. Or, he can try and jump around a corner and blow you away with a SPNKR. You can't really win if you camp in one spot. Now, if you lurk in tunnels that provide several camping spots, then you can cover more of the map. Invite the enemy into your lair, only for him to find out that you aren't there... you're around the corner, waiting with Shotguns.
Should you have to get into a face-to-face fight -- and you will, if you're playing on an arena-like map -- then you should definitely play to your strengths. If the map is poor, one weapon will be extremely powerful, and you'll basically have to use it. However, on more fair dueling maps, any of many weapons will work, and you'll be better off with your favorite gun than with what's necessarily the best. The power weapons don't necessarily dictate the game, because you don't really have to kill fast in a duel; you just want to kill safely and efficiently. In this case, your best gun is the best pick. If you are playing on a map that requires you to use rockets -- like Route 66 -- then you might be stuck, but knowing how to use rockets well is a skill you should learn anyway.
Small EMFH games are slightly different than duels, in that two major factors emerge and quickly change the whole game around. The first concept is known as
Vulturing goes in very well to the lurking strategy listed above in the dueling section, because you have the added benefit of preying on people that aren't necessarily looking for you. On the other hand, if they are both looking for you, you might be in trouble, so you'll have to deal with more face-to-face battling than in duels, because the number of enemies has doubled. Also, favoritism toward weapons as opposed to picking the biggest and fastest gun may fade away, simply because you'll want to kill quickly to vulture effectively. At the same time, you'll have to tend to other people vulturing you at the same time -- so avoid using slow killers, like the SMG, unless you can kill effectively with them.
Ultimately, though, the same principles of dueling apply, since most of your combat will be against one person. Track your target until he's vulnerable; kill quickly and hide again; avoid direct combat with the enemy. Unless you're really good at fighting face-to-face quickly (and if you are, you probably aren't reading this); then, by all means, do that instead.
The second concept (remember, there were two) that emerges into small EMFH games is what I call
Large EMFH games lose some of the strategic focus of smaller EMFH games and focus more on quick killing. The person that can hunt down the most people, kill them the fastest, and then move on to the next person most efficiently, will win the game. As you have more and more players in a map, even if the map is larger, camping, lurking, and vulturing will take a back seat to direct combat, simply because there are fewer and fewer places to lurk effectively without someone sneaking up on you and ruining your day. Knowing the map that you're playing on is as important here, because you'll want to know where the key areas are, how to get to them as fast as you can, and how to collect the most powerful ammo and guns along the way.
The focus on weapons also shifts even more toward the power weapons -- Shotguns, SPNKR, and TOZT, with the Assault Rifle and SMG becoming less useful. This is simply because they can't kill quickly enough without the kill being stolen by another player. You'll want weapons that have a very high rate of instantly killing your enemy. Personal safety takes a backseat because (unless the host is an idiot) you're going to be playing on maps that have a large volume of big guns, and you won't have anyone specifically hunting you down when you're at a disadvantage.
Leader bias, on the other hand, takes a much larger role, but you have to worry, because if someone gets a clear lead, it's usually because they're much better than the rest of the crowd, and they're taking advantage of the weakest players. Preying, by the way, is something that you should do often in large EMFH. Seek out players that are easy kills, and kill them a lot. One, you'll kill them before other people do, putting more points in your pockets -- and two, because they're just easy points overall. Combine that with hunting down the leader and you should be able to close the gap more easily. However, if he's that much better than you, then you don't have much hope. Once they get that 10- or 15-point lead, you're kind of stuck.
Team EMFH is typically played with 4 or more players and usually pits even teams against eachother in large maps. Team games don't work altogether too well in Marathon, because team recognition is somewhat sub-optimal. Here's how it works: the color of a player's shirt represents that specific player. This is how normal EMFH works. However, instead of the pants matching, the pants will be a different color, representing that player's team. Team identification is based on the pants of the player, not the shirt. Couple this slightly ambiguous form of identification with the fact that friendly fire is always on without Lua interference, and you've got a recipe for disaster.
Despite this, though, team EMFH games can work very well. A good tactic is to stay together -- but not too close. Try to disorganize the enemy team, and prey on single players. Two against one generally stacks the odds heavily in the two-player group; that's one point in your team's pockets, at a minimal cost. Plus, that means you can quickly take down the other team member without interference from the first player. And so on. Alternatively, you can have players stationed at specific areas, covering each area of the map. Though this is generally more organization than people want, if done right, it can lead to excellent teamwork; two good players can cover the whole map and put the entire other team in disarray because they can never band together.
A warning though -- random games are unlikely to be team-based, and even if they are, the organization you're going to get is slim. Many people don't know how to identify teams, and team-killing is rampant. You have to tolerate this. Team-kills are overall not detrimental to your team's score, but don't do it. It's never a good thing. Stand strong and lead your team to victory; it's a lot easier when half of the other players actively do not want to kill you.
Tag sucks. It's not played very frequently, and for good reason. But here's how it works: the first person to die becomes "It." While you are It, you slowly accrue time. To become Not It, the person who's It must kill another player -- or, alternatively, someone suicides. Suicide automatically makes that player It upon respawn. If a player dies while It, they respawn still It. The map beacon will always point toward whoever is it, or be a full circle if you are It. The person who has the least time wins.
So why does Tag suck? It very greatly accentuates the difference between the good and the bad. Ultimately, the game turns into "everybody vs. the It," and for people that are less skilled, they can be It for the entire game, because they simply can't score kills. Even if they do, they'll rapidly become It again. That's not really very fair at all. Also, camping does very well, because if you stay away from the carnage, you'll never die. While this is a cheesy way to win, it sadly works. Tag isn't much fun.
King of the Hill varies drastically from EMFH in that the goal is specifically to stay alive as long as you can in a very small region of the map. This region varies from map to map, and many maps aren't enabled for KOTH at all. Enough of them are, though, and while KOTH is not nearly as popular as EMFH, it is very fun, and leads to an entirely different branch of gameplay than EMFH. For instance, you can throw out all of that stuff about vulturing, avoiding face-to-face combat, and so forth. The objective is to stay on the Hill, which is usually ridiculously exposed. You aren't going to live very long, so this part of the guide is all about maximizing your score.
First of all, the value of guns changes. The SPNKR isn't so useful anymore, because unlike before, you don't really want to kamikaze. It doesn't do you any good, because you die too, and you don't score while you're dead. It's a great way to clear off the Hill, though, giving you a few seconds of breathing room when you approach... you just have to beware of other people doing the same thing to you. On the same token, though, weapons that do well in close-quarters, especially the Assault Rifle, do extremely well here. You can keep continuous fire on your enemies, who are likely no more than eight feet away from you, and your grenades can push them away from the Hill. At the same time, you don't have to reload as often, so you'll always keep your enemies under pressure.
Next, you have to focus a lot more on simply getting to the place in question, and less on getting ammo along the way. Good KOTH maps are designed with this idea in mind, and simply provide tons of ammo everywhere. However, less can be found on the Hill, so you'll have to resort to plenty of weapon juggling in order to stay alive and well-stocked. Don't dawdle while getting to the Hill; the 10 seconds you spend looking for guns may be a very decisive 10 seconds. KOTH games are usually very close, and you'll want to spend every waking second either on the Hill or finding your way back there. If you don't have any powerful weapons, use your fists; run-punching can work really well. That being said, there are two golden rules in this regard. The first is never spend more than three seconds getting a weapon, and the second is never leave the Hill.
Lastly, you have to deal with a new kind of douchebag player: the
Team KOTH is exactly as it sounds, though the style of gameplay is almost entirely different to that of regular KOTH, for obvious reasons. Under normal circumstances (this can be edited by Lua scripting), everyone on the Hill scores points for their team. However, this is not necessarily the best way to play, because if all of the eggs are in one basket, then they can be broken most easily (so to speak). This can be offset by using some form of tactics -- and by dividing your team, keeping other members on the prowl to intercept people heading for the Hill.
In this case, spoiling to a certain extent is permissiable, because you can still win overall even if one team member isn't on the Hill. Sending one member (of, say, three) out so they can hoard ammo and attack the other team safely is a much better strategy than sending all three to the Hill for several reasons -- one, you can safely dispatch members of the other team while they're on the Hill so your other teammates can start scoring; two, you can take down people as they head to the Hill; three, you can get lots of big guns that other players would miss in their haste. This is good in many ways, though you shouldn't devote more than one person to this. Then you just won't score very much. Otherwise, principles of regular KOTH are retained; hurry to the Hill and stay there at all costs.
Ball is a pretty simple concept. You take the Ball and you hold onto it for the most time so you can win. This, of course, has its limitations; mainly, when you are holding onto the Ball (shaped like a giant bouncing skull), you can't shoot any other weapons. On top of that, you can't run; you can only walk. Furthermore, the beacon on the motion sensor will point directly at you. In other words, you're a sitting duck, and people are going to swarm on you like fat kids on candy.
Avoiding this is simple enough. Find a safe place to hide -- one where you can see the opposition coming, but you can still make a quick getaway if you need to. Teleporters are great in this regard, because you can't get shot through a teleporter. When the opposition comes, rather than simply running away, drop the ball (press fire) and draw your big gun. The enemy player will probably try to grab the ball himself; at this point, promptly kill him and take the ball. Then leave through your exit route and move somewhere else. It's not too hard to keep a hold on the ball, and if you're skillfull, you'll build a very large lead rapidly enough.
Note: this section assumes you're using the CTF Script and a special set of maps (like Magenta Filter).
Capture the Flag -- the most teamwork-oriented gametype and one of the most fun. The objective is to take the enemy's flag (represented by a miscellaneous item, see below) and return it to your flag base, while preventing the enemy from doing the same thing. In this gametype, all members of a team are represented by the same shirt color -- but if they're carrying the opposing team's flag, they'll be wearing a white shirt. This allows you to easily distinguish the important characters.
An example of a blue team's base. The blue team's flag is represented by the S'pht Card Key there on the blue square, which is the base to which you must return the enemy's flag. You want to prevent the opposing team from getting this flag.
An example of a red team's base. Their flag is an Uplink Chip. In both of these pictures, notice the handy scorekeeper on the top of the screen (yes, the pics are minimized...). It says 0/5, meaning that each team has captured 0 of the 5 flags required to win. The solid square adjacent to the score means that the flags are in their proper place -- that is, the flag base.
An opposing team member has taken the blue flag from the pedestal, and his shirt has turned white. Notice that the blue square in the corner has now become a flag, meaning that the flag has been taken. If the icon is a big X, it means that the flag has been dropped somewhere. To return the flag to its pedestal, simply touch it, and it will return automatically. Remember that you can't score points if your team's flag is missing, so you'd better go return your flag!
You'll always have indicators judging how far away you are from the enemy flag. The Oxygen Meter shows distance; an empty bar means you're very far, a full one means you're basically on top of it. Also, the motion sensor's beacon will point towards it.
This section of the guide is simply a glossary of common terms used, both used throughout this guide and in common vernacular.
This guide will not make you suck less. The only person that can make you suck less is you. I can't teach you how to aim; I can't teach you how to think properly. All I can do is provide hints, tips, suggestions, and strategies that you can follow, but Marathon is a very fast-paced and fluid game and you have to be able to think quickly and on your feet. Some of these tips may not apply to you at all; they might not fit your style of play. I suggest them because I typically win, but I have been beaten by people that don't use my strategies.
What you take from this guide, then, is all up to you. You can follow it to a T, and do well, but if you don't take the effort to PRACTICE, then you will never get better. Reading will not do you a whit of good if you don't practice. Always play, always challenge people better than you, use strategies you learned from here and elsewhere, combine them, and formulate your own style of play. Focus on one or two weapons and get really good with them. Play the most frequently hosted maps -- download them, look at them, study them. Learn the nuances. Play lots. That's how you can really get better. This is just a utility to help you along the way.
That being said, I hope you enjoyed the guide; this is one of my biggest written efforts to date, and it's my second effort at a newbie guide. Looking back, so much of this guide has varied from the original; it really goes to show just how playing styles evolve. If you have any further questions or comments, there are several ways you can reach me:
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